Grading away from the house
Soil is shaped so surface water runs away from the perimeter instead of collecting against it. Flower beds banked against the brick are a common culprit.
Most foundation trouble in Pflugerville starts with soil moisture that swings too far. Pflugerville Foundation Repairs corrects grading and drainage and installs root barriers so the clay around your slab stays closer to the same condition all year.
Blackland clay swells when it takes on water and shrinks when it loses it. A downspout soaking one corner while the opposite corner dries out under a tree is exactly the condition that tips a slab. Correcting it is usually the least expensive work on this site and sometimes removes the need for anything else.

Which of these apply depends on your lot. A house on a flat interior lot has different problems from one at the low end of a street.
Soil is shaped so surface water runs away from the perimeter instead of collecting against it. Flower beds banked against the brick are a common culprit.
Roof water is carried well clear of the foundation, often underground, rather than dumped at a corner where it soaks the clay at one point.
Where the lot cannot simply be regraded, a drain line collects water and takes it to daylight or to the street. The outlet is as important as the trench.
A barrier set vertically in a trench between a large tree and the house stops roots drawing moisture from directly under the slab, without taking the tree out.
For dry spells, a hose run set back from the slab edge on a timer keeps moisture steady. We will show you where to put it and roughly how often to run it.
A permanently damp patch with no rain to explain it can be a plumbing line under the slab. A pressure test answers that before more money goes into drainage.
Sequence is the useful question here. If an inspection shows movement but the readings are still modest, correcting drainage and installing a root barrier first, then watching the house through a dry summer and a wet winter, is a reasonable and much cheaper plan. If the house has already moved significantly, this work goes alongside the structural repair rather than instead of it, because piers set into soil that keeps flooding and drying are working harder than they need to.
Trees are the part people worry about. A mature live oak close to a wall can pull a lot of water out of the clay in a drought summer, and a root barrier is normally a better answer than removal, which brings its own problem as the soil rehydrates and swells back. Talk it through before anything gets cut down.
Read how to water a foundation through a Texas summer, see where this fits with slab repair and piers, or get the numbers first with a foundation inspection. Local conditions by town are on the service areas page.
The length of trench, how much soil has to move, where the water can legally be sent and what is in the way, such as sprinkler lines, utilities or a driveway. Root barriers are priced by the run of trench and the depth. Pflugerville Foundation Repairs walks the lot with you and quotes the specific runs rather than a flat lot price.
Sometimes, if the movement is early and the drainage problem is obvious. It will not raise a slab that has already dropped. Think of it as removing the cause: it can stop things getting worse and make any structural repair more likely to hold. The inspection readings tell you which situation you are in.
Usually not as a first move. Taking out a mature tree lets the soil under that area rehydrate and swell, which can lift the slab as surely as drying shrank it. A root barrier plus steady watering is normally the more controlled option. If the tree is diseased or unsafe that is a separate question for an arborist.
Tell us what the house is doing and we will plan the right inspection.